April 2021
As we arrived at Friday Creek Retreat (20 mins West of Coffs Harbour) Craig’s father Stuart promptly waved Craig through one of the farm gates, beyond which we would be setting up the caravan for our stay. Mali and I stepped out to watch the display of masculinity only to hear Craig inform Stuart that he was getting bogged trying to traverse the soggy slope whilst circumnavigating the large fig tree. The all-terrain vehicle (aka ‘Farmboss’) was promptly fired up to assess the situation. Next, the big guns came out. The tractor was put in motion and carefully pulled the ute and the caravan out of the bog (photo provided) before Craig nicely placed the van under the shade of the said fig tree.
Stuart and Judy were busy packing up their home for a relocation back to the Sunshine Coast so we helped where we could and spent an afternoon with Mali’s cousins Tom and Sophie and Aunty Kindra before they flew back to Wollongong. We took the opportunity to spend a few nice mornings enjoying Coffs Harbour – mini putt-putt, tobogganing and banana splits at the Big Banana, surfing and a wonderful swim near the Coffs Harbour Jetty. Thanks for having us Stuart and Judy!
Yamba
We departed Coffs Harbour and made our way 130km north to Yamba. We spent 5 nights at the Yamba Blue Dolphin Holiday Resort. Complete with two pool areas, including water slides, a bar pool, a pump track for the little ones, mini golf, a park and a jumping pillow Mali was in heaven. We met a lovely family from Victoria who were 4 months into a similar trip and Mali and their eldest son Amauri built a lovely friendship (pictured). This was Mali’s first real friendship on the road – they were both sad when they had to say goodbye. It was a wonderful few days of kids play, fishing, surfing and exploring. Three kilometres south of Yamba is Angourie Surf Reserve and pools – a group of blue and green (well one was brown) freshwater pools. They were created when the old quarries hit underground springs and filled the pools with water. It was a refreshing dip and there is a great rock you can jump off. We caught the Ferry north across the river to Iluka, a lovely small village at the mouth of the Clarence River. We cycled through town and went to explore the World Heritage listed Gondwana Rainforests. The walk was lovely but not all it claimed to be really. Mali turned back after 10 minutes so we didn’t get far, much to our frustration. Those little legs need some training.
Nimbin
Craig and Mali dropped me off at Duck Creek Mountain Bike Park (west of Ballina) for a little mountain biking whilst they did some schoolwork in the caravan. The trails were great. It was a small park with only 9km of mixed trails with one loop track (Flatline) essentially dropping you into most of the trails. It was easy riding and a great morning riding on my own.
We camped at the Nimbin Showground for $25 a night (power and water + lovely clean showers). The town was ramping up for Mardi Grass that weekend, which I thought was a gay pride March until I actually found a written sign in town. Mali spent most of the day shopping for a rainbow jumper but decided to buy a whole outfit instead. She really loved the town with all its colour and artworks in the main street and was sad to leave.
Queen Mary Falls (Killarney)
We left Nimbin aiming for Queen Mary Falls, just across the QLD/NSW border near the town of Killarney. The Queen Mary Falls Caravan Park (~$35 night powered) is directly across the road from the falls walk and was such a lovely spot (and incredibly friendly and helpful hosts). We hand fed parrots, had an open campfire and explored all the falls in the area. Mali, surprisingly, made the 1-hour (2km) circuit down to the Falls and up again. Perhaps the excitement of walking under the falls distracted her (she did need a piggyback coming up the other side). Craig’s Dad put us onto this route in order to avoid Byron Bay, the Gold Coast and Brisbane. Best advice ever.
Esk
Next we drove north through Toowoomba City Centre to a beautiful town called Esk, the heart of the Somerset Region of QLD on the western edge of Brisbane and the Sunshine Coast. The caravan park ($40 night powered) caretakers only just squeezed us in since QLD was having another long weekend we didn’t even know about! The Stunning backdrop of Mount Glen Rock was right next to the Caravan Park. The Brisbane Valley Rail Trail was also right next to our campsite which is the longest rail trail in Australia spanning 161km from Wulkuraka to Yarraman in the north. Shuttles transport cyclists from one end to other and you can ride, camping overnight or staying at one of many of the other accommodation options along the way, all the way in 4 days. I rode from Esk through to Toogoolawah (19km) then on to Harlin (14km) where Craig and Mali picked me up. It was a wonderful ride passing through countryside and through the heritage-listed Yimbun Railway Tunnel built in 1909. I’ve never been a history buff, but after stopping to view all the plaques and photos on the trail I was taken back to a time when a steam train bringing in fresh milk was the event of the week. There was no pulling on your activewear and thongs to dash down to the corner store. Everyone was well dressed in puffed blouses and fluted skirts with fancy hats and parasols. The ride really took me back to another time.
Woodford (Neurum Creek Bush Retreat)
We continued heading north through the town of Kilcoy - Yowie Country. We took our token photo with the local Yowie sculpture, visited another bakery with no vegetarian options and continued East to blissful Neurum Creek Bush Retreat ($50 night powered) bordering D’Aguilar National Park. It is a beautiful spot with options for canoeing, hiking, swimming in the creek and campfires. I am loving these campfires!!! Mali spent hours in her wetsuit and swimming vest sitting in the creek right beside the campsite modifying the creek and damning sections with little rocks and pushing her bluey toys down the river in floating legume pods.
We drove into Woodford (home of the Woodford Folk Festival) and up the Beerburrum Woodford Road to the Glasshouse Mountains Lookout with spectacular views of the mountains. Mali managed the 20-minute walk (800m) around the lookout track but we are trying to extend this distance so she can handle some of the longer walks coming up on the trip. We cruised down to Old Gympie Road and headed north 45 minutes to Mary Cairncross Scenic Reserve (Maleny). This was impressive. The visitor centre had some wonderful multi-sensory and interactive displays including an exhibit simulating 24 hours in the rainforest including sound effects, lights and even rain! We borrowed a Junior Ranger Kit and took Mali on the rainforest loop walk which we all loved. She didn’t make the full 1.5km circuit so we cut the loop short. We were all so excited to see Pademelons literally metres in front of us hopping along the tracks. I would definitely recommend it.
What have we learnt:
1. Don’t assume there won’t be 2 long weekends in a row in an unfamiliar state because you might not get a camping spot (check your calendar diary – most list the public holidays in all states).
2. Don’t enter the City name into google maps as a vague location if you don’t necessarily want to go into the centre. Chat with your co-driver about a better location before you get there and end up negotiating city streets with a caravan.
More photos in the Gallery.
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